Autobahn Impressions - German Autos

Here are some somewhat random impressions about the auto that Germans drive. Some are not too surprising, others might be.

• There is a much higher percentage of German made autos on the road than from any other country. These would include Mercedes, BMW, Audi, VW, Opel. I don't include Ford here, but I think a number of them are made Germany
• Japan is probably second.
  
• I think Porches might be more popular in the US than in Germany. I seem more likely to see them in the US that here.
  
• Every manufacturer that sells in both the US and Germany, has smaller car models for the German market that are not sold in the US. For example, Ford has the Fiesta and the KA. Audi sells and A3. Mercedes markets an A and B class. Toyota sells a car small than its Yaris, the Aygo.
• The Honda Fit is called the Honda Jazz in Germany
  
• To maximize space, a high percentage of small and mid-size cars are hatchbacks or station wagons. Leading body styles that I don't think are available in the US. Examples would include station wagon versions of the Ford Fusion, BMW 3, Audi A4, Toyota Camry and Honda Accord. Also, hatchback version of Honda Civic and Toyots Corolla.
• The GM mark in Germany is Opel. I have seen an occasional Chevy. But the typical brands that we in the US associate with GM are not here.
  
• Volvo and Saab seem more popular in the US than in Germany
• The French makers. Renault, Citröen, and Peugeot, have quite a reputation for their small cars
• I cannot get excited about the Fiats that I see. Rather plain simple body styles. So simple that it looks like minimizing the manufacturing cost of the bodywas the primary driving force in their design.
  
• A lot more Alpha Romeros on the road here that in the US. I'm talking hatch backs or family cars, not the sport cars. They do have a sense of style to them.
  
• Seat is the Spanish wing of VW. Their cars have sleeker bodies that their German counterparts while appearing to be built on the same frames.
• Skoda has a following in Germany. They remind me of BMWs, but I suspect there are a bit cheaper.
• Some Prius can be seen, and I would say that the number is growing.
• Diesel versions of most cars. Diesel is cheaper here than gas, and just as available.
  
• Some SUVs can be found. But certainly they are in no way the same percentage as in the US.
  
• Mercedes E class looks great on the autobahn. If I went into a Mercedes dealer, my mind would say A class, but my heart would want an E class.
  

Walking Frannie - Picking Up

There is at least one aspect of German culture that I don't accept. As a general rule, people don't pick up after there dogs. In a country that tries so hard to make sense in so much of what is done, it hard to understand that the sanitary and aesthetic value of picking up doesn't out weight the effort in doing so. I mean it's not safe to walk on the grass in the park. Sometimes it's not even safe walking on the path in the park. And the cost is a bag and 5 second to reach down and pick up.

I'm not accepting and environmental argument about increased use of plastic in bags. Reduce the impact with the use of bags from recycled plastic or paper.

I will accept different rules when walking in the country than in the town.

This is one area where Magda and I have decided not to assimilate. We will pick-up after Frannie. It's the right thing to do.

If we do it, who knows, maybe 3 or 4 other will do it. And if 3 or 4 others are doing it, as Arlo would say, you got yourself a movement. Then if you can just get a few more to join the movement, you got yourself a revolution. And that just what we need here in Wallersheim, a dog pile pick up revolution.

Sure enough, while walking Frannie in the park, we say a lady walking a husky. The husky went, the lady took out a bag, picked up and tossed it in the near-by waste bin.

Three more and we have a movement.

Reading the Grapes, Baden 2009

Talked with two vintners about the Traubenlese (literally Grape Reading, actually refers to harvesting the grapes). Both were very excited about the harvest. Dry July, August and September had provided high levels of sugar. Something to look forward to on trips to Badenweiler next year.

Still need to visit some vintners on middle Rhine and Moselle to see if we can expect some interesting Rieslings.

Hiking in Schwarzwald, October

We decided to hike a little in the Black Forest, but as there was snow above 1000 meters, we were a little concerned that the snow might be a little deep on Belchen (first picture) at 1415 m. Our compromise was to drive up to a pass at 1080 m called Kreuzweg. From there is a pleasant loop hike over Kälbelescheuer and Heldenhof and back to Kreuzweg.

As we suspected, the hike was right above at the snow line. The snow added to the beauty of the hike, covering the trees and the ground with a couple of inches. But the spectacular thing were the views of Feldberg (third picture) and Belchen. These are Germany's second and third highest peaks.

Frannie was quite enamored by the snow. She doesn't get excited by much, but this was special. She was running in circles, jumping up and down, back and forth, grabbing mouthfuls of snow, just generally wanting to play. It was a joy to watch.

She also got to visit another resturant as we stopped a the Gaststätte at Heldenhof before the climb back to Kreuzweg. Here she met a Münsteränder for the first time. Both showed impeccable resturant manners.

Frannie's Postcard Home

Frannie sent a postcard to a friend in Clintonville. Hope you can read it. It is sort of hard writing with paws.

Hint: click on the picture to see a larger image

Walking Frannie - Other Dog Breeds

As noted previously, Frannie at 50 pounds is one of the larger dogs in Wallerheim. The predominate dogs here are terriers or terrier mixes. As you get out into the country, you see more larger dogs. Many are mixed breed, and many did come from animal shelters. Finding a companion from the shelter seems a preferred path for most Germans and it is for more and more Americans.

The image that most Germans would associate with the word dog is the German Shepherd. An they are certainly popular here. Although a lot of these seem smaller the the German Shepherds I know in Columbus.

German Shorthair and Wirehair Pointers are seen here just about as often as I see them in the US.

There are other German dog breeds that seem more popular in the US than they are here. I have never seen a Weimaraner here. Although an internet search does show clubs dedicated to the breed. Same with Doberman and Rottweilers. Although, I have seem one Rottweiler here.

There are a couple of German breeds that we have seen here, but have never seen in the US. One is a Wachtelhund. Litteraly, this would translate to "Quail hound", but I think they are also know as German Spaniels in English. They appear to be a bit larger than a Brittney or Springer. Coloring can vary from dark brown patches on white to all dark brown. As the name suggests, these a bred as birding dogs.

The Münsterlander that we meet was a beautiful dog. She was 13 years old, white with large and small patches of mahogany brown. She about the same weight as Frannie, but with longer legs. Her coat was medium length and she had brown, intelligent-looking eyes. She also seemed to have a good temperament. Both she and Frannie set under adjacent tables in a restaurant on one of our hikes. A really, really pretty dog.

Hiking in Markgräflerland, October

Are hikes when we are in Badenweiler tend to follow a progression. Starting with a hike in the hills around the town, becoming gradually more difficult, then on the last day taking a hike that involves a relatively steep climb to one of the peaks that are near by.

The first day hike also follows a pattern. It's about 9 km and begins by accessing a trail across the street from the apartment. We climb about 100 meters in the first 1.5 km to a rocky area with views of Badenweiler and the surrounding vineyards. Then ridges around through the woods to the small framing community of Sehringen. From there it drops down through a valley of cow pastures and orchards to the picturesque village of Lipburg. There are nice views down the valley towards the Rhine river on this part of the trail. After passing through Lipburg, there is a short walk through more pastures and then back into the woods to Niederweiler. We then ascend under Badenweiler's castle into the town and back to the apartment.

The added attraction of this hike is October is the opportunity to collect nuts along the way. Earlier in the month, apples and pears would also be available to collecting from abandoned trees along the path. But we were a little late for that this year. However, the trails does pass by chestnut trees as we leave and re-enter Badenweiler. Also through walnut trees entering and leaving Lipburg. We concentrated on the walnuts on this walk. The walnuts here are English walnuts, so they don't have the thick skin of the black walnuts in Columbus. Rather, the walnuts pop from the skin as they ripen, making the easy to collect.

The walnut trees tend to be on private property on either side of the trail. You'll never sure if the owners collect the nuts or not. But the rule is that the nuts that fall on the trail are fair game. We managed to collect 3 kg before deciding that was enough. The limiting factor being how much we were willing to carry up the hill to Badenweiler rather than the availability of nuts on the trail.

Frannie is certainly learning to love these hikes. On the trail, she is investigating every smell and every hole on either side of the trail. 9km hike for us is likely a 12 km hike for Frannie as she goes from side to side with her investigations. She also loves romping in the fields, racing around in circles, comming back to Magda or I to be petted, then doing it again.

In Niederweiler, Frannie discovered another reason to enjoy being in Germany. There is a small resturant in Niederweiler that caters to locals and hikers. called Klemmbackmühle. The restaurant is filled with antiques, including a suit of armor. But for Frannie, the important thing she discovered is that dogs are allowed in restaurants here. She really is a good restaurant dog, setting quietly under the table, observing everything happening, and occasionally being petted by a customer as they enter to leave. She thought that was pretty cool.

Walking Frannie - Doggie Relations

Frannie is not the only dog in Wallersheim. That is not too surprising, Germans do love their dogs. It is also not too surprising that Frannie is one of the larger dogs in the neighborhood. The realities of living in 1000 to 1200 square foot apartments lead to a preference for smaller breeds. What has been surprising is the aggressive reactions of other dogs to Frannie. Or the number of times on a walk that you see someone with their dog change direction to avoid their dog reacting to Frannie.

Magda actually was not at all surprised when I mentioned this. It turns out that it is highly unlikely that these dogs have been neutered. The general feeling in the culture is that neutering changes the dogs personality and that would not be right. Of course, Germans do not appear to deal with puppy mills or wide spread problems of dogs in the street. In point of fact, I'm told that animal shelters actually have to import dogs from areas that do have such problems for placement in German homes.

Autobahn Impressions - Stau

Magda shares a small apartment in Badenweiler, a spa town south of Freiburg situated in the the southern part of the Black Forest. It is a wonderful place for hiking either through the vineyards and fields of Markgräflerland or in the mountains of the Black Forest to the east. Belchen, the thrid highest mountain in Germany, is a short but winding drive away.

Not surprisingly, Magda and I decided to spend a few days of her fall vacation in Badenweiler. The trip is typically a 3.5 hour drive. Being late on a Saturday, the drive was progressing nicely. The number of LKW (large trucks) on the road was reduced. There are times that there are so many LKWs on the road that you think the Autobahn is one lane in each direction. But on Saturday and Sunday, the numbers are much smaller.

However, this was offset by the number of construction projects along the way. Fortunately, they did not require reducing the number of lanes. The Autobahn seems designed to use the side lane as an extra lane when construction is needed. Plus construction projects do not seem to require the heavy concrete protection that is used in the US. Some pylons to route the traffic to one of the lanes and the side lane, narrowing the lanes, requiring all LKWs in one of the lanes and slowing the traffic down through the project seems to be enough.

Then 35 km before our exit, we came to a complete stop. We have come upon the scourge of Autobahn, traffic jam. Or as the Germans call it a Stau. The fact that this is a four letter word will have more meaning to an English speaker than a German one. But in either case, it is not something you want to experience.

We inched forward as the traffic allowed, then waited for our next opportunity. Reaction of some other drivers we interesting as we watched people go into one of the two rest stops that we passed and out again without stopping, just to merge back into the traffic 4 or 5 spots ahead of where they were. Others started to drive the side lane, only to be blocked by an LKW that purposely straddled the right and side lane to stop such activity.

10 km and over an hour later, we discovered that the reason for the Stau was not an accident, but rather another construction project. This one, however, did require a reduction of lanes and the resulting merge had caused the back-up. If you figure that each car had used a gallon of gas for those 10 km at about $8 per gallon (yep that's what it costs here), you certainly hope that was an important project.

Zwetschgen

Zwetschgen are the German version of elongated purple plums similar to the varieties that are sometimes seen in US markets called Stanley or Italian plums. These sorts of plums can be eaten as is or stewed with wine. I suspect these are the types of plums that are dried to make prunes. But in Germany, they are especially loved for baking and jam making.

Zwetschgen are smaller and ripen in mid to late October after that other varieties of similar plums. Also they have a distinct flavor that define certain German dishes. Still, Zwetchen because of their smaller size, late harvest and tall trees have fallen out of favor with growers who prefer to produce the larger, earlier, and easier to harvest varieties of purple plums.

We we fortunate enough to receive a bucket of the real thing from one of Magda's relatives. We used them to make the Zwetschenküchen and a batch of Pflaumenmuss.

Zwetschenküchen ( see the second photograph) is a baked pastry made by lining up rows of de-pitted plums that have been laid open over a sweet yeast dough. Some people will sprinkle sugar or Streussel (a mixture of sugar, flour and butter that forms a crumble that can be sprinkled). But we consider that a bit much. We prefer "au naturel".

Pflaumenmuss is sort of like apple butter made with plums. Like apple butter, it can be used like a jam. The ingredients are simple:

• 4 to 1 mix by weight of de-pitted plums and sugar (see the first photo)
  
• heat
• patience

The mixture is allowed to set for 24 hours before cooking. Some say even longer is better. Then the mixture is brought to a boil while constantly stirring. The mixture is allowed to reduce to about two thirds the original volume (or until the desired thickness is reached). This can take awhile, but the result is worth it.

Walking Frannie - Green Spaces

As anyone with a dog knows your dog's need for "waste elimination" becomes a concern in scheduling your day. Some folks are able to get away with letting the dog out in the back yard. Frannie has always required a more high maintenance approach. Typically this means a walk that include green spaces where she can "do her duty". Concrete or blacktop would not be considered acceptable.

Living in Magda's 4th floor apartment Wallersheim presents additional challenges. First is the challenge of 4th floor living. It doesn't sound like a good idea to hurry down 3 flights of steps with a dog that needs to go right away. It is necessary to time things so that Frannie has the need, but it's not an urgent need.

The second is the challenge of living in Wallershiem. Wallershiem is a community of Koblenz along the Rhine just north of the Deutsche Eck at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Prior to 1970, this community was mostly orchards. As the "Wirkshaft Wonder" attracted people to leave the country side for jobs in the city, the framers in communities adjacent to large cities figured out that they could set themselves for life by building apartments and houses on their land. And that is what happened here. Four and five story apartment building and row house sprung up faster that the growth could be controlled. The result is a complex maze of streets with little green spaces available.

So, one of our first missions was to locate the nearest green spaces for our walks with Frannie. We do have two small parks about 2 blocks away. These happen to be on the way to a passage to the banks of the Rhine where there is additional green for Frannie's use. Another somewhat larger park is about 3 blocks away. And there are some spaces in front of some Schreber gardens (gardens belonging to a club and rented by members to tend, named after the name that described the healthful effects of gardening) about 4 blocks in yet a different direction.

The good news is that we do have places for Frannie to claim, and we are able to have some variety in our walks.

Fleischwurst

October 9th, 2009, the first full day in Germany for Frannie and me. We started the day with a hike in the Koblenzer Stadtwald. There a several nice trails that Magda and I have enjoyed in the past. One in particular is a 6 km loop with one relatively steep uphill section of 1 km. If we are good, we can do this in under an hour. Although we walked Frannie a lot in our neighborhood of Clintonville in Columbus, Ohio, this would be a long walk for her and we wondered about her ability. While it was not a major problem for Frannie, it was noticeable how she started the walk sprinting ahead of us, by the end she was walking with us.

We headed off to a local Metzgerei (butcher shop) to stock up for the week-end. It was a Friday, but Saturday was a German holiday so shops would be closed. And on Sunday, shops are always closed. In getting our meats for the week-end, we were given a piece of Fleischwurst for the dog. Dogs and children traditionally get a piece of sausage at he butcher's. Fleicshwurst is a finely ground sausage pretty similar to what you would find in baloney or hotdogs in the USA. Frannie has experience both hot dogs and baloney as treats, but for her Fleischwurst was a discovery. I cannot tell you why Fleischwurt is more exciting than baloney or a hotdog. But we have never seen Frannie so excited about food. And this is a dog that does not show much excitement about anything. She was doing every trick that we ask, and inventing a few new one. Anything for that next piece of Fleischwurst.

Maybe we shouldn't read too much into it. The 6 km hike we had just finished may have contributed to her excitement for any kind of food. But she did seem to find a reason to be happy about the new digs.

The Flight to Germany

Checking in for the flight took an hour. This was because the NW/Delta agent was concerned that the date on Frannie's EU 998 health certificate was older than 10 days. The NW/Delta manual stated something to the effect that a dog need a "health certificate signed within the last 10 days or forms required for entry into the destination country". The requirement for German was a EU998 that showed following:

• a rabies vaccination at least one month and no longer that 1 year prior to travel
• a micro chip that meets the EU standard or a tatoo
• signed by the vet and authenicated by the US FDA.
  

There was no 10 day requirement on date on the vets signature.

The agent made about 10 calls looking for verification that the date was OK. I suppose the good news about this is that it took an hour off the time that Frannie would have to spend in the crate. We also met and talked to the TSA agents that would be inspected Frannie and her crate. Eventually, the agent got the OK to ship Frannie. TSA inspection went smoothly. The agent was kind enough to take Frannie directly to the plane. At our connection in Detroit, I was informed that Frannie was on the plane to Frankfurt. So far, so good.

Arriving in Frankfurt, it took a bit longer than normal for me to get through passport control. In typical EU fashion, there were 3 stations open, 2 for EU citizens and 1 for non-EU. And the non-EU station was shared with crew and handicapped both of which went immediately to the front of the line. So the 40 minutes seem longer not knowing how Frannie took the trip.

When I finally got through, I found Frannie's crate at the large baggage area. She was definitely happy to see to see a familiar face, wagging her tail and licking my fingers through the door of the crate. I was a little worried about taking her out of the crate at that moment, having visions of Frannie using the middle of the baggage hall as a WC. So I placed the crate with Frannie inside on a cart, got my bag and proceeded to customs.

Customs looked at the date of the rabies vaccination and the microchip. Did not care at all about the vet's signature, or the US FDA seal.

As we entered the arrival hall, I saw Magda waiting to the left, which was also the direction to the door to the crate was pointing. When the crate was even with Magda, the cart started to wave back and forth so that I needed both hands on the cart to control it. There was also a loud thump, thump, thump coming from the crate. Frannie had seen Magda through the door of the crate for the first time in 2 months, had stood up in the crated and was shaking her tail so hard that the cart was shaking. This continued as Magda greeted Frannie and through the airport as we looked for someplace to let her out of the crate.

Once out of the crate Frannie went back and forth between Magda and I, curling around as she rubbed against our legs wanting to be petted. Magda gave her a short walk, but as there was no grass at the airport, Frannie waited for the first rest stop before making her initial claim to German soil.

As a side note, while this happened I watched a kestrel hovering above a field dive down catch a mouse and carry it away.

The Adventure Begins

October 7th, 2009, 11:30 am, my adventure begins. For the next 3 years, Magda, my wife, Frannie, our dog, and I will be spending most of our lives in Germany.

I suppose if you ask why we are doing such a thing at this point in our lives, you might argue that our adventure began much earlier. Maybe on my 56th birthday, September 15th, 2008. Of course for most people, this is the day the most of us discovered the house of cards that had been constructed by the financial institutions that had become "too big to fail", that needed taxpayers to bail them out, and that felt that their management need to be handsomely rewarded for efforts. The resulting drop in the markets gave my company the opportunity to trim back compensation, particularly retirement benefits. While most were happy to still have a job, Magda and I had another option. I could take early retirement, and we could spend the next 3 years in Magda's home country where Magda could finish her teaching career. After that, with each of us having pensions, we can decide what to do.

And so, at 11:30 October 7th, my sister arrived to take Frannie and myself to the airport to fly to Frankfurt, Germany. There, we would meet Magda who had returned 2 months earlier when the school year had started in Koblenz where she had be assigned a teaching job.